RECENTLY REVIEWEDNICE TO MEAT YOU: In macho mode, red-blooded Texas men generally crave one of three things: barbecue, chicken-fried steak or a big, juicy burger. You can hardly do better than Kelly's Eastside for any of them. In the heart of Plano's bustling historic downtown, Kelly's looks the part of an old-fashioned manly bar and grill. Slate on the floor, old brick and stone on the walls and a tin ceiling envelop the simple wood furniture with a golden glow. Actually, though, you find as many women as men here, and plenty of families with kids of all ages.

WILLIAM DESHAZER/DMN

Chicken-fried steak with queso mashed potatoes and grilled vegetables

THRILL OF THE GRILL: For nearly five years, the place has been dishing up really good food, closely overseen by owners Tim and Carin Kelly. You can smell the grilling smoke as you walk in from the parking garage out back. Slices of brisket with a perfect, close-knit texture vie with thick wedges of country sausage as the barbecue offering of choice. Chicken-fried steak, perfectly seasoned and almost tender enough to cut with a fork, is encased in a crunchy crust that stands up to the thick white country gravy.

BETWEEN THE BUN: The hamburgers may actually be better than the barbecue or the chicken-fried steak. Thick but not unmanageably so, and cooked precisely to order, they come gussied up in all sorts of ways. A Kelly's regular told us his favorite was the Southwestern burger, and we can see why. Scoops of guacamole and sour cream adorn the meat, melted pepper jack cheese and a roasted chile poblano. Grilled onion rings and pico de gallo make the slices of lettuce and tomato served on the side (let alone mustard or ketchup) redundant. I do wish Kelly's would do something about its limp french fries, often served cold.

CHOICES, CHOICES: Kelly's menu is so large that you could come to the restaurant every night for a month and not exhaust its possibilities.

Catfish is served three ways, fajitas seem highly popular, and the vast array of sandwiches includes innovations like a house Reuben with regular brisket instead of corned beef. Daily specials often include barbecue shrimp, prime rib or corned beef and cabbage. Most customers seem to find room for dessert, with good reason. Go with the chocolate pecan pie, an unorthodox creation that seemed to be built on a phyllo base, with a bourbon-scented filling topped with lots of nuts and chocolate chips and then soaked in chocolate sauce. Even better is the house carrot cake, ideally moist and flavorful and made without the expected nuts.

Kelly's is about to expand. We can only hope that the intimate, welcoming atmosphere and the kitchen's admirable consistency won't be lost in the change.

Lawson Taitte

The full April 11 review is online at GuideLive.com.

Kelly's Eastside

{star}{star}{star} (very good)

Food {star}{star}{star}

Service {star}{star}{star}

Atmosphere {star}{star}{star}

Price: $-$$ (entrees $7.25 to $16.99)

Address: 1422 Ave. K, Plano

Phone: 972-424-9200

Web site: www.kellyseastside.com

Hours: Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m. to midnight, Friday-Saturday

11 a.m. to 1 a.m.